PlanterTomato Vegetable Gardening

Standard Breed Poultry: An Interview with Jim Adkins

In the second interview of this series from the EcoFarm conference, I speak with Jim Adkins of The International Center for Poultry, an organization that educates people about standard poultry breeds and sustainable farming.  Jim has over 30 years experience with poultry, having raised over 50 standard breeds and varieties. He has a license to judge poultry from the American Poultry Association and has judged birds in the United States, Australia and Canada.  In 1992, Jim founded the International Center for Poultry to promote understanding of standard breeds and he teaches workshops on the subject throughout the U.S. and abroad.

PlanterTomato:

Jim thanks for speaking with us today.

Jim Adkins:

Good to be here.

PlanterTomato:

So let's begin by first discussing what you mean by the standard for poultry and why it's important for backyard flock owners.

Jim Adkins:

There's a book called The Standard of Perfection that is published by the American Poultry Association.  The American Poultry Association is the oldest livestock association in the country. It was organized in 1873.  I have one of the earliest editions published in 1897 [Jim points to a copy of the book] and it describes exactly what a Rhode Island Red, Plymouth Rock, Leghorn etc. should look like.  

Photo: Page from the 1938 edition of The Standard of Perfection

PlanterTomato:

Why is that important to the backyard gardener or poultry enthusiast?

Jim Adkins:

When you don't breed by the standard, your going to get a bird that's compromised -- it might be smaller weight, it might not have the carcass quality that it should have because all American breeds are dual purpose for eggs and meat, so the standard keeps poultry where it should be from it's breeding parents.

PlanterTomato:

If I wanted to make sure the birds I was buying for my flock meet the standard of perfection, where would I buy them?

Jim Adkins:

You should go to individual breeders.  I encourage people to stay away from the large hatcheries because they are looking for quantity, not quality. The best thing you can do is go to local breeders. You can find them at local exhibits, the county fair, or you can also check out the Poultry Press which is a monthly publication.  Finally, if you become a member of the American Poultry Association, they send you a yearbook. Breeders who advertise in this yearbook are usually a very reliable source for good standard bred poultry.

PlanterTomato:

Where can I go to learn more about the standard of perfection?

Jim Adkins:

You can order your own copy of the Standard of Perfection from the American Poultry Association web site.  You can also purchase them from us at the International Center for Poultry.  You can also sometimes find them at your local library, 4H, or county extension office.

PlanterTomato:

OK, so let me ask an expert... could you make some breed recommendations for those who are interested in keeping chickens in their backyard primarily for eggs.

Jim Adkins:

The first question you have to ask is whether you want brown eggs or white eggs. If you want white eggs, it's fairly easy -- all the Mediterranean breeds such as Leghorns, Anconas, Andalusians, and Buttercups.  As far as brown egg laying breeds, all of the American breeds such as the Buckeye, Plymouth Rock, Delaware, Chantecler, and the Rhode Island Red.  All of these breeds are dual purpose, they were bred for meat and eggs.  You could use the females for egg laying, and if you had extra males in your flock, you could use them for meat.

PlanterTomato:

Assuming someone just wants to raise chickens for eggs and they want eggs for their family, not to sell, how many chickens should that person get for a family of four?

Jim Adkins:

I would recommend 6-10 hens because not every hen is going to be laying at the same time.  And if all the birds are in production, you will have some extra eggs you can give away to a neighbor. By the way, you don't need to have a rooster to get egg production. 

PlanterTomato:

What general advice would you give to someone new to raising chickens?

Jim Adkins:

Here is a great principle that I teach people attending my workshops...I tell people that their eyes are their best management tool.  You can look at a flock of birds to see how they are acting... are they foraging, are they active, etc.  If the birds are spending lots of time going through their plumage they may have mites.  Generally speaking, your eyes are your best management tool.

PlanterTomato

What are some typical mistakes that newbies make?

Jim Adkins:

Chickens need good feed quality, water quality and air quality.  Make sure that there's plenty of ventilation and also that the chickens have dry litter.

PlanterTomato:

What advice do you have for people keeping chickens in the city or suburbs?

Jim Adkins:

Firstly, make sure that you are within the law. You don't want to get birds and then realize that they are illegal and you can't have them.  Check out your local laws.  Secondly, make friends with your neighbors.  Tell them in advance that you are getting birds.  Some will love it and some will become your enemies.  You want to be careful.

PlanterTomato:

For many backyard chicken keepers, the birds aren't just livestock they are pets.  They may not want to cull the flock and that makes it difficult to add new chickens that are producing eggs.  What strategies would you recommend to introduce new birds to an existing flock?

Jim Adkins:

I would recommend that if you want to start a new flock you should get rid of the old one first.  That's the easiest thing to do.  It's very complicated to introduce new birds because hens can be very territorial and harmful to the new birds. One simple thing you can do is to put a fence down the middle of your coop and keep the new chickens and the old hens separated.  That way they can get used to each other.  Even then, there's going to be some fighting through the fence.  Again, your eyes are your best management tool.  Put them together, see how they act.  You need to accept the fact that there's a pecking order and you should keep an eye on the birds at the top of the pecking order so they don't do any really destructive things to the younger birds. 

PlanterTomato:

If people want to learn more about the International Center for Poultry, what's your web address?

Jim Adkins:

It's www.CenterforPoultry.com.  We do workshops and also there's a hen-house coaching network and other resources on the web site.

PlanterTomato:

Thanks for speaking with us today.

Jim Adkins:

Thank you.

Jim Adkins

Organic Chicken Feed: An Interview with Chris Wagner of Modesto Milling

This week I attended the EcoFarm conference in Pacific Grove, California and had the opportunity to meet with a variety of people who make their living in organic farming.  In this first of a series of three interviews conducted at the conference, I speak with Chris Wagner, head of sales, for Modesto Milling.  Modesto Milling produces a range of organic feed products for cows, pigs, rabbits, chickens and other livestock.

PlanterTomato:  

I'm here at the show today speaking with Chris Wagner of Modesto Milling.  Chris thanks for speaking with me.

Chris Wagner:

Thanks for inviting me.

PlanterTomato:

To start off, why don't you tell us a little about Modesto Milling.

Chris Wagner:

Modesto Milling started in the early 1960's as a co-op for dairymen to make mixed grain for their dairies.  In 1998, the co-op started making organic feed for its members and in 2007 we became a 100% organic mill.

PlanterTomato:

How does a chicken's nutritional requirements change over time?

Chris Wagner:

We start chicks on a product that is 22% protein in order to support the chicks growth. Also it's a crumble product that's designed for small birds. At approximately 4-5 weeks, we move them into a lower protein finisher pellet until they start laying.  At that point, we move to a layer pellet that has 4% calcium to support egg shell strength.

PlanterTomato:

Is there a difference between the food that is given to chickens that are layers versus those that are meat birds?

Chris Wagner:

You can raise them identically, but meat birds are normally just grown out for 6 to 8 weeks, so you don't really use the higher calcium product.

PlanterTomato:

In my local feed store, they sell both pellets and crumbles.  What's the difference between these two product forms? When do you use one versus the other?

Chris Wagner:

We pelletize all our feed, but we will crumble the pellets to make feed for smaller birds.  As the birds get older, maybe 4 or 5 weeks, you can switch to a pellet and that allows for less waste. 

PlanterTomato:

I know Modesto Milling also sells organic scratch because I give it to my chickens.  What role does scratch play in the diet?

Chris Wagner:

Scratch is used to supplement a layer pellet or a broiler finisher pellet.  It's not necessary, but it's whole grains and they enjoy eating it. Scratch also allows you to bond a little more with your chickens.

PlanterTomato:

Where can people find Modesto Milling products?

Chris Wagner:

We encourage people to call us because we enjoy selling directly to both large and small folks who are interested in organic feed.  That's always been our focus, even as a co-op, our dairies tended to be the smallest dairies.

PlanterTomato:

Chris, thanks for speaking with us today.

Chris Wagner:

Thanks for Inviting me.

More About Buying Modesto Milling Products: 

Modesto Milling products can be purchased at select feed stores and on-line. The company is also happy to ship to customers. If you have neighbors who keep chickens, or are part of a 4-H club, you may want to consider creating a "buying group." By banding together, the group can greatly reduce the shipping cost and receive Modesto Milling's direct pricing. Contact Chris Wagner (cwagner@modestomilling.com) to discuss which feed and shipping options are best for you.

Chris Wagner of Modesto Milling

Wishing All A Happy 2012

With the new year fast approaching, I want to thank all my readers for your interest and comments in 2011. 

Below is a photo of some fresh eggs taken from our coop earlier this morning. We added some new chickens to the flock this summer and we are rewarded today with a New Years Eve treat..... some of the new girls are laying eggs with beautiful greenish-blue shells. So we ring in the new year with delicious, fresh eggs in an array of colors - white, cocoa, dark brown, and now, green.

I wish you all a happy and healthy 2012.  I look forward to sharing much with you in the new year.

Chicken Lovers Eggnog Recipe

This recipe for "Baltimore Eggnog" comes courtesy of House and Garden Magazine from the 1970's.  It's made better if you are able to include fresh eggs from your own chickens, so I call it Chicken Lovers Eggnog.

This recipe serves 30, so cut down appropriately.

Ingredients:

• 1 dozen fresh eggs (from your own hens is even more special!)
  
• 1 pint brandy
• 1/2 pint light rum
• 1/2 pint peach brandy
• 3 pints milk
• 1 pint heavy cream
• 2 cups superfine sugar (this is sugar that is more fine than regular, but less than confectioners) If you can't find it, use what you can have on hand)
• Nutmeg (will be grated on top of eggnog)
  

Recipe:

1. Beat the egg yolks and sugar together until they thickened.
2. Set aside the egg white which you will whip just prior to serving.
3. Slowly, add all the remaining ingredients to the egg  yolk/sugar mixture.  Refrigerate for at least 1 hour.
4. When ready to serve, whip the egg whites until they are stiff (like meringue).  Mix into the rest of the ingredients.
5. Serve in punch glasses and top with grated nutmeg.

Happy Holidays to All From PlanterTomato!

Calling All Chicken Owners - Please Take This Quick Survey

I'm writing a posting on who owns chickens and why.  I reached out to the USDA for information on this subject, but they haven't really collected any information on backyard chicken keepers.

If you own chickens, please let me know a little bit about how many you own and why by taking the Backyard Chicken Survey.  It will only take a few minutes and I'd really appreciate your help.  Thanks in advance!

Ducks or Chickens: Which Have Better Eggs

In this posting, I explain the differences between duck and chicken eggs and make recommendations for those considering adding both types of poultry to their backyard farms.

Last weekend my family visited a friend who also is doing urban farming here in Northern California.  We brought her a few pounds of our honey and exchanged it for fresh cheese she makes from the milk produced by several goats she keeps in her backyard.  We got a tour of her farm and during the tour I asked her about the two ducks she also is rearing.

My friend keeps "Indian Runner Ducks" a breed that walk more upright than standard duck varieties and can outproduce chickens when it comes to eggs.  I mentioned that I was thinking of adding ducks to our menagerie so she sent us home with a few duck eggs to try.  For those interested, here's how chicken and duck eggs compare to each other...

Size:

As you can see in the photo below, duck eggs are larger than even jumbo sized chicken eggs.  The duck egg on the left weighs over 3.0 ounces, the chicken eggs weigh 1.75 and 2.25 ounces respectively.

Yolks:

The difference is more dramatic when you crack the eggs.  Duck eggs have a much larger yolk and the ratio of yolk to white is also lower than in chicken eggs. (See below photo with duck egg on left and chicken egg on right)  This impacts the texture and flavor of the eggs in certain dishes as I will explain below.

Taste:

In my opinion, taste differences between chicken and duck eggs are slight.  I doubt most people would taste a difference if you didn't tell them they were eating duck eggs.  However, the larger yolk size may be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on how you like to eat your eggs.

Fried Eggs - I don't like eating runny egg yolks, so when I fry eggs, I cook them on both sides until the yolk is solid.  This is easy to do with chicken eggs, but the larger size of duck eggs makes cooking them this way difficult.  To get the center of the yolk firm takes longer and this means the white may move from crisp to burnt.  If you like to fry eggs so the yolk is hard, chicken eggs are better.  If you love runny eggs, duck eggs may be more to your taste.

Scrambled Eggs - The larger yolk in duck eggs leads to a richer tasting scrambled egg with a more soft mouth feel.  In a scrambled eggs, I prefer duck eggs.

Hard Boiled Eggs -  In my opinion, this is probably the preparation where the difference between duck eggs and chicken eggs is most pronounced.  Boiled egg whites have a very hard mouth feel.  In chicken eggs, the ratio of white to yolk is fairly high so the overall texture is harder.  In contrast, duck eggs feel softer in the mouth and the increased amount of yolk leads to a richer creamier flavor.  

Recommendations:

If you are thinking of keeping either chickens or ducks, don't let flavor of the eggs be a deciding factor.  Differences exist to be sure, but they are not game changers. 

If you eat primarily fried eggs, I think most people will prefer chicken to duck eggs, particularly if you're the type that likes fried eggs cooked hard.   If you are a hard boiled egg lover, then duck eggs are superior.  If you eat all styles of eggs, then go with chicken eggs for no other reason than the portion size is smaller.

One more thing... If you are on a cholesterol reduced diet, you probably can guess that chicken eggs are a better choice; one chicken egg has about 200 milligrams of cholesterol while a duck egg will have over 600 milligrams. Ouch!

Modern Coop Design: Stylish Estate for Your Backyard Flock

So who's the most famous chicken coop architect? Mies van der Rooster?  I. M. Peck?  Christopher Hen?  No, it's Jeff Troutman, a graduate of the Colorado at Boulder School of Architecture.

Troutman designed the coop as a school project and it was subsequently displayed in the Boulder Museum of Contemporary Art.  A number of museum visitors expressed interest in buying it, so Troutman and Eric Millinger, an evironmental engineer, founded Colorado Chicken Coops.  The company now sells a modified version of the original coop on their web site. 

The coop is shipped in a flat container and customers then assemble it using supplied hardware.  The pieces slide together in tongue-and-groove fashion, and are held together with screws and metal brackets.  Based on the video on their web site, it appears very easy to assemble, so those with limited construction skills should feel comfortable purchasing this coop.  The design also allows owners to easily access the nest box through and exterior door and to clean the coop via another larger door on the back.

 

The Colorado Coop measures approximately 3 feet x 3 feet and the optional adjoining pen is 7 feet x 4 feet.  This makes it a great size for the urban or suburban farmer who wants to keep 3 to 4 chickens and has limited space.  (For those considering adding chickens to their backyard garden, each young hen lays an egg a day during most the year.)

In my opinion, the feature that really distinguished this coop from others on the market is it's handsome design.  You can buy a Colorado Coop for $699 + shipping.  The coop and run package is $949 + shipping.

How To Keep Your Chickens Laying Eggs In Winter

If you keep chickens, you know that egg production declines in Winter.  Here's a tip on how to keep the girls laying eggs all Winter long.

Chickens need 16 hours of sunlight for good egg production.  During the Winter months, they lack this light and so egg production takes a nosedive. 

The remedy is to increase the amount of light your hens receive by placing a light in your coop and providing the additional "sunshine" that Mother Nature isn't.  Apparently, a 40 watt bulb running from 5:00 PM to 9:00 PM is all you need.

Credit where credit is due...I learned this tip from the folks at Love Apple Farm of Santa Cruz California.  Thanks Guys!

Free 2011 USDA Poultry Calendar

A Free Poultry Calendar with tips on how to keep  your chickens safe from avian flu (H5N1) and other diseases can be had courtesy of the US Department of Agriculture.  Just tell them your mailing address and they will send it and other publications to you for free.  If you live overseas, you can download a PDF of the calendar and other useful information by just clicking on the image of the calendar or brochure. 

The calendar includes lots of nice photos and some good tips as well.

Here's the link:

USDA

 

How To Build A Better Waterer For Your Chickens

If your using a standard metal or plastic waterer you already know that it get's pretty dirty.  That's not good for your flock and it's not easy for you to keep clean either.  In this post, I'll show you how to build a waterer that stays clean and is easy to maintain. 

I've been using a standard metal waterer like the one shown below for a while now.  This waterer is simple to use but it has two major disadvantages -- it does rust over time and the water gets fouled because chickens kick up dust when the scratch and this lands in the pan of the waterer, converting the contents to mud.  While these waterer can be hung above the ground, I find that it makes little difference.  At the end of the day, there's plenty of dirt in the water.

To resolve these issues, I did some research on the internet and discovered that commercial chicken farmers water their flocks by running water pipes into their coops and providing access to the water using a device called a poultry nipple.

A poultry nipple is a essentially a valve.  When a chicken pecks at the protruding metal stem, the valve releases a few drops of water that the chicken can then drink.  It works on a similar principle to water bottles that are used in hamster and guinea pig cages.  You can buy poultry nipples at FarmTek and other suppliers as well as on eBay.

My waterer uses a Rubbermaid Roughneck storage box as a water reservoir.  I keep this reservoir outside the coop where I can easily fill it and then run PVC pipe to the chickens.  The pipe is about 19 inches above the ground, about the right height for my chickens to reach it.  The poultry nipples are inserted into the PVC pipe by making a hole in the bottom of it using a hand drill.

I made my waterer using 1/2 inch PVC pipe, a T-shaped PVC fitting, an elbow fitting, two PVC pipe end caps, a threaded PVC male adapter fitting, a few poultry nipples, a Rubbermaid Roughneck plastic storage container, a rubber washer and an appropriately sized nut.

The actual PVC components you will need might vary from mine depending on where you want to place your waterer.  I did not seal the pipes together with any kind of cement; this made construction easier and gives me the option to disconnect the PVC pipes to clean the insides should I need to do so in the future.

The connection between the PVC and the water reservoir is made by placing a threaded male fitting to the end of your PVC pipe.  Then cut a hole in the reservoir towards the bottom of the container.  You want the hole to be just large enough to fit the threaded part of the fitting inside the container.  Finally, use a rubber washer and a large nut to fasten the PVC pipe to the container.

Here's a video of the chicken waterer in action.

 

 

Which are Better Pets? Dogs vs. Chickens

Find out which make better pets in this posting that compares chickens and dogs.

Dogs are the most popular pet in America and Europe.  But do they deserve that status?  Let's do a side-by-side comparison of dogs and chickens to find out which make better pets:

Daily Feeding

• Chickens:  Fill the feeder as needed; generally, just a few times per week.
• Dogs: Feed every day, two times each day.  Supplement with table scraps when begging occurs.
  
• Winner -- Chickens.
  

Daily Upkeep

• Chickens:  Let them out of the coop in the morning.  Close the coop at night.
• Dogs:  Put on your coat and go out in the pouring rain or snow to walk your dog.  Do this two or three times each day for a minimum of 20 minutes each time.  When you get home, use a towel to wipe off your dogs feet or suffer with muddy paw prints on your floors.  In urban and suburban locations, you need to clean up after your pooch, so talk along your pooper scooper and dog bags.  Having fun yet?
• Winner -- Chickens

Household Inconveniences

• Chickens: None.  They live in a coop outside, so you have your home to yourself.  Clean the coop once per week -- takes about 20 minutes.
• Dogs:  Dogs generally live with you, so dog hair gathers on your floors and your furniture as well, because dogs sleep on the couch whenever they can get away with it.  And of course, there are those little accidents on the floor now and again which you'll need to clean up.  Get out those paper towels.
• Winner -- Chickens
  

Cute & Cuddly

• Chickens:  Tame enough to hold, but not exactly what I'd call cuddly.
• Dogs:  Definitely cute and cuddly.  And then there are those sad brown eyes looking at you.
• Winner -- Dogs

Eggs

• Chickens:  Each girl gives you a wonderfully fresh egg that you couldn't buy at the grocery store for love or money.  You get one egg per day from each bird.
• Dogs:  If you've collected any eggs from your dog, post a comment because we'd all like to know about it.
• Winner -- Chickens

Play Fetch

• Chickens:  Generally, not very capable retrievers.  Practice not likely to improve performance.
• Dogs:  Dogs love to fetch sticks, balls, Frisbees, you name it, a dog will retrieve it.
  
• Winner -- Dogs

Eat Backyard Pests

• Chickens:  Love to eat slugs, bugs, and other creepy crawley critters.
• Dogs:  Don't kid yourself, dogs eat anything.  I once saw my dog eat a spider.
• Winner -- Tie between Dogs and Chickens
  

Provide A Source of Meat

• Chickens:  You can eat 'em if you want to.
• Dogs:  Not unless you live in a very poor country or you have a sick mind.
• Winner -- Chickens

Welcome You

• Chickens:  Come running to the door of the pen when they see you because they are hoping for treats (chicken scratch)
• Dogs:  Come running to the door of the house when they see you because they are hoping for treats (Milk Bones, Liva Snaps etc.)
• Winner -- Tie between Dogs and Chickens
  

And the Winner Is....

Well with all the categories tallied chickens prove to be far superior pets. 

Ok, it's a tongue in cheek comparison, but here's the real point.... Chickens are actually much easier to take care of than you might think.

The hardest thing you need to do is to build a coop and you really don't even need to do that.  You can buy a coop locally or through the internet.  There are even manufacturers making coops with high style modern designs to fit into urban environments. Check out the Eglu Cube and other coop models from this manufacturer in the UK.

If you currently own chickens, post a comment and let me know if you agree with me about how easy it is to keep chickens. 

If you are considering raising chickens, but have not taken the plunge, let me know if you have any questions I can help you with.

Chicken Oscar Winners

This is a follow up to yesterday's humorous post on Hollywood celebs with chicken names.

And the envelope please....

Buck-Buck-Buck Rodgers wins with 33% of the vote.  Congratulations to the "winner" and all the nominees.

Special thanks to all who participated in the voting.

Chicken Oscars

Cast your vote for the best chicken-related celebrity names in Hollywood.

Regular readers of this blog know that I keep a small flock of chickens in my urban garden. 

With news media buzzing over tomorrows Oscars, I thought I do some nominating of my own. 

Below are my nominations for actors and actresses with the best chicken related names in Hollywood.

I would ask that you, as an official members of the Academy, cast a vote for your favorite poultry celebrity by using the voting widget that is to the right of this posting.  I'll tally up the scores and announce a winner on Monday, March 8, 2010.

Nominees for the Best Chicken Names

• Gregory Peck
• Francis Ford Coop-pala
• Feather Locklear
• Debra Winger
• Calista Flockhart
• Chick Corea
• Henney Youngman
• Buck-Buck-Buck Rodgers
• Yoko Ono
• Betty White
  

Honorable Mention

• Puffy Combs
• James Van Der Beek
• Shelly Winters
• Cameron McCracken
• Britt Egg-land
• Nestor Serrano
• Terry Fryer

Done in a spirit of fun, with no ill will to any of the nominees.

eBay for Chickens

You only has to look to eBay to know the truth of the statement "One man's garbage, is another man's treasure."

Likewise, we humans toss out carrot peels, beet tops, less-than-perfect lettuce, and other vegetable trimmings that any chicken would gratefully use the "Buy It Now" button to get her beak on.

So we've found a way to make everyone happy.  We keep a large bowl on the kitchen counter.  As we prepare dinner, vegetable and fruit scraps get saved in this bowl and are distributed to the girls the following morning.

Any fruit or veggies left over in the kids lunch boxes also make their way to the scrap bowl.  I've even given the girls cooked barley left over from beer that I've brewed at home.

Chickens love these treats and run to the door of the pen when they see me coming with the familiar white bowl.  Blueberries and grapes are particularly treasured and it's hilarious to watch the girls grab these morsels and dash off to a private corner to enjoy them unmolested.

Table scraps are great for the girls, who get supplementary nutrition from them, as well as high entertainment value;  they love playing with apple cores, celery stalks, carrot tops and anything else that comes in the scrap bowl.

We benefit too.  Not only do we recycle scraps that would normally get thrown away, the extra veggies in their diet make the yolks from our chicken's eggs a beautiful deep orange-yellow color.  I'm sure our eggs are higher in vitamins and minerals than if we feed the chickens a diet solely comprised of chicken feed.

So it ends up being a win for everyone.  eBay for Chickens -- One man's garbage, is truly a chicken's treasure.

And there's no charge for shipping and handling.

Keep the Poop Out of Your Coop

Last post I focused on some of the key design features of my chicken coop.  In this post, I’m going to briefly outline the materials used and basic construction.  A list of materials is at the bottom of the post.  The actual amount of materials you need depends on the size of the coop you are building.

From my perspective, the most innovative aspect of this coop is the floor pan.  This allows me to easily “keep the poop out of the coop”.  The floor pan is made using corrugated plastic roofing material. (This is available in 8 foot long 24 inch wide sheets from most building supply centers like Home Depot.)  Just slide the sheets through the door opening at the bottom of the coop, being mindful to overlap the sheets.

When I need to clean the coop, I open the door, slide out the sheets and dispose of the straw that I place over the pan to provide absorbency.  I then wash off the corrugated plastic material with a garden hose, place it back in the coop and re-cover with straw.

As for the roof itself… I used metal corrugated roofing material because I liked the look of this material.  But be aware that metal roofing is razor sharp along the edges.  If you don’t want to take steps to dull the edges, use plastic corrugated material instead.  If you decide to use metal, file down the edges after installation. I then painted the edges with Plasti-Dip as an extra precaution.  (Plasti-Dip is a plastic material that is used to put a coating on tool handles like pliers)

Below is a basic construction outline:

• Build the frame for your coop using 2x4’s.  The frame for each wall consists of four 2x4’s that are connected to form a rectangle.  The 2x4’s are held together using nails and metal hangers (if you don’t know what these are, ask at the hardware store).  Since I built my coop above the ground, the vertical sides of some of frames extend an extra foot.  I cut the top the 2x4” to match the intended angle of the roof.
• Do this for each side of the coop and attach the sides to form the skeleton of the coop and connect all the sides together with nails and hangers.
• Nail plywood sheets to the bottom to form the floor.
• Install a perch.
• Nail fence boards to the sides to form the walls. (Leave openings in the sides for the doors to the coop and nest boxes, window areas and floor pan.
• Install nest boxes
• Nail plywood sheets to top to form roof.
• Create door and hang on coop with hinges and safety hook closures.
• Nail corrugated roofing material to roof using roofing nails.  Allow for a few inches of overhang to allow rain to drip away from the side of the coop.
• Staple wire fence material to windows with staple gun.
• Slide plastic roofing material through front floor pan door, overlapping the sheets.
• Done

All materials can be purchased at Home Depot or similar store:

• 2x4's for frame
• ¾” plywood sheets for sub-roofing & floor
• Solid wood board (used to make fences)
• Plastic corrugated roofing
• Metal corrugated roofing (optional)
• Nails
• Hinges
• Metal hangers – used to connect 2x4 lumber
• Safety hooks and eyes to close doors
• Plasti-Dip
• Staples and staple gun

If you are new to construction projects, seek help from your local home center or buy a book on the subject.  You should also wear gloves and safety glasses and read the manufacturers manuals for any power tools you use.

How to Build A Chicken Coop. Design & Innovation.

Earlier this year, I built a backyard chicken coop.  The coop can hold as many as ten chickens, but we have just five at this point.  That’s plenty…It’s pretty much kept us in eggs since the summer.  While tomorrow’s post will discuss construction, I want to focus on the design features in today’s post.  So here goes...

• Shape of Coop – the coop is designed with a window at the top and bottom of the coop and an unusual shape with two roof lines.  The shape and window placement create a high degree of air circulation.  This is important because chickens perspire through their mouths like dogs do when they pant.  By properly venting the coop you prevent the build of of excessive moisture that can make your chickens sick.  The concept of this shape is taken from “Fresh Air Poultry Houses” published in 1924.  I estimated dimensions for my coop by looking at a picture in the book and then scaling them to a smaller size.

• Floor Pan For Cleaning – As far as I can tell, this is a design feature that is wholly of my invention.  It allows me to easily clean the coop by opening a small door in the front of the coop and removing a floor pan.  I normally put straw on the pan, so cleaning is just dumping out the old straw, hosing down the pan, putting the pan back in the coop and adding some new straw.

• External Access to Nest Boxes – The nest boxes are located on the inside the coop and are accessible from the outside by opening a small door on the left side of the coop.  This makes egg collection a breeze.

• Good Ground Clearance – I built the coop one foot off the ground.  This keeps the chickens warmer since cold air settles closest to the earth and also keeps rodents out by raising the total structure off the ground.

• Back Door Access- The back of the coop is essentially one big door that hangs on pegs.  This makes weekly cleaning easy and if I need to spray the coop for mites or other nasties, I can readily get inside the coop with a sprayer.

Photos with design details shown can be seen at my Flickr page http://www.flickr.com/photos/45934064@N00/sets/72157623179367425/